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| Q. What is the average
gallon per minute required for the average size lot? A. Most installations may vary from ten to thirty gallons per minute, depending on pump size, number of well points used, and productivity of the sand layer the well points are in. We recommend that you gauge the amount of water needed based on the largest zone in your irrigation system, as this will be your greatest need at any one time. |
| Q. What amount of water can I expect from a 1 1/4"
well point? A. Under ideal conditions, a Brady 1 1/4" well point can deliver between two to three gallons per minute per linear foot. |
| Q. How do I know how
deep to set the well point? A. Depending on ground conditions, a well point should be set below the static water level in the ground and in the largest grained sand layer possible. Large grain sand has more room between the grains, and thus will transmit water at a greater rate than small, tightly packed sand grains. |
| Q. Is it necessary to pass
through clay layers in order to reach "water bearing sand"? A. Water bearing sand layers may be above or below a clay layer depending on geographic location. |
| Q. What type of pump
should I use for irrigation? A. A sprinkler pump is the ideal type for irrigation use. Compared to a jet pump, which delivers high pressure with low volume, a sprinkler pump is designed for pumping large amounts of water while building little pressure within the pump head. Most sprinkler heads are rated at only 25 psi on average. |
| Q. Can plastic well
points be driven into the ground? A. Driving a plastic well point may cause cracking in both the pipe and the glued joints, and the damage may not be apparent until pumping of the well begins. |
| Q. Why do the inside
couplers fit certain pipes and not others? A. The inside couplers are an injection-molded part, which is far more consistent than extruded PVC pipe. It is important to check the fit of the pipe to a coupling before purchasing. A snug fit is ideal considering the rough handling the pipe receives such as slight bending, dropping, and pulling. All sizes of Brady inside couplings, (1 1/4", 1 1/2", 2"), are designed to fit pressure rated schedule 40 PVC pipe made to ASTM standards. Use only "all purpose" glue with a quality primer for all joints in your installation. |
| Q. How much time is
required to set glued joints? A. The average time is twenty minutes, as long as the fit of the coupling to the pipe is snug. |
| Q. Does using more
water help in washing down the 2" casing during installation? A. Using an additional water supply will help to move the sand from the ground to the surface at a faster rate than using only one source of water. It is important to keep the flow of water moving to the surface, even if it means backing the pipe out slightly during installation. Patience is a must during this procedure, as you need to let the water do the work. |
| Q. When should I use
the 3/4" pipe during installation? A. The method of inserting the 3/4" pipe inside the 2" casing is useful anytime you encounter a thin clay layer or any problem sand layer. Keeping the 3/4" pipe only a few inches below the 2" casing so that the water coming out carries sand or clay with it is the ideal method. If help is available, this job is easier with one person holding the 3/4" pipe in the correct position and the other advancing the casing into the ground. |
| Q. What causes the
"T" pack to pop off of the casing and what can be done? A. While adding additional lengths of casing, the water level in the pipe will drop to the static level, thus introducing air to the pipe. When the "T" pack is put back on the pipe and the water flow is started, the air in the pipe is compressed and pressure builds eventually pushing the "T" pack off. To fix this, fill the pipe with water before re-installing the "T" pack. Also, it may be necessary to lift the casing up to restart the circulation of water to the surface. |
| Q. Can I join well points
together to make them longer? A. Although "stacking" well points can save time, the entire length must be in the same sand layer. Having the upper portion of the well point in a poor water bearing sand layer will increase the chance of over pumping this section as the pump will pull water from the closest source. This may expose this upper portion of the well point to air. |
| Q. Why should I remove
the 2" casing after inserting the well point? A. Removing the casing is required, as it will drastically decrease the production of the well if left in. Also, leaving an open hole in the ground between the casing and the well point will cause surface water to travel down between the pipes and could possibly contaminate the groundwater supply. A government agency would not accept this situation, and would require you to properly abandon the well(s). |
| Q. What is the best way
to test a well for production? A. The ideal method is to use a pump of comparable size to the one that will be used in the actual installation. |
| Q. Is there a diagram
for joining together more than five wells? A. The process for this is to remember that all of your wells need to be brought together to a common point in the center. If one or more wells are considerably closer to this common point than the other wells, then the pump will pull water from the nearest inlet. This will result in some of the wells being over pumped, and some not being used to their potential. |
| For more information, please send your questions or comments via e-mail to bpi@bradyproducts.com. |
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